Vertical equipment
When you need to go deeper
Climbing
systems
Your climbing system is your lifeline underground — it’s how you ascend out of pits, cross traverses, and move through vertical cave systems. Whether you’re hauling out of a 100-foot drop or inching along a tensioned traverse line, your vertical rig is what keeps you progressing. There’s no universal “best” system — each setup has its pros, cons, and ideal use cases depending on cave conditions, rigging style, and personal preference. For a deep dive into vertical techniques and system breakdowns, check out fellow caver Derek Bristol’s channel or for the gear list breakdown visit Bennett Lee’s Website.
The most commonly used system worldwide — simple, compact, and efficient for tight caves and rebelays. It uses a chest ascender, hand ascender, and a foot loop, keeping you low and close to the rope. - I personally pair mine with a Petzl Pantin foot ascender to make a frog runner — it adds power and efficiency for flying up vertical drops.
FROG
A classic U.S.-style setup using a hand ascender with a foot loop and a separate tethered foot ascender or QAS. It’s modular and minimal, great for long, free-hanging pitches, but can be tiring and isn’t ideal for rebelays or tight passage.
TeXAS
A hybrid between Frog and Rope Walker, using a floating hand ascender with a foot loop attached to the chest ascender. It gives upright climbing efficiency while staying compact and manageable in tighter caves. Good middle ground for varied terrain.
Mitchell
Built for clean, uninterrupted vertical shafts. This system uses foot and knee ascenders to allow near-upright walking up the rope — extremely efficient for big climbs but bulky and less suited for complex rigging or rebelays.
Rope Walker
Harnesses
The core of every vertical system.
Seat harness
There are a lot of solid cave harness options out there. I currently use the Petzl Aven, and it’s been my favorite so far — super durable, well-padded, and reliable on rugged trips. That said, you must use a D-link carabiner (tri-lock or screw-lock only) to properly secure a cave harness. It’s the central point for your system, and nothing else should be used.
The Superavanti is a lighter version of the Aven with less padding — more compact, but less comfortable for long trips. The MTDE Amazonia 2 is another great option: comfortable and budget-friendly, though a bit bulkier. All of these are cave-specific and built for tough conditions. Your choice depends on fit, durability, and what feels right when you’re hanging from it.
Holds your chest ascender in place while climbing.
CHest harness
Chest harnesses aren’t load-bearing — they’re just there to keep your chest ascender upright while you climb. I used to use the Petzl Torse, which is as simple as it gets: one strap, no padding, and ultra-lightweight. It works fine, but on long climbs like Fantastic, it dug into my shoulders and left me pretty raw.
Now I use the MTDE Garma, and it’s been a game changer. It’s padded, super adjustable, and has chest loops for attaching accessories. It’s bulkier than a basic strap or bungee, but the comfort is worth it for long vertical days. You can get by with just a bungee, but if you want durability and comfort, the MTDE Garma is the one to use.
Ascenders
Clips to the rope and gives you upward pull — usually holds your foot loop.
Hand Ascenders
I currently use the Petzl Ascension, which has been the standard for years and works well across most rope diameters. It’s reliable, durable, and performs great in both dry and wet conditions. I’ve also tried the Kong Futura, which feels smoother on thinner ropes but less versatile overall.
There are tons of options on the market, but Petzl’s handled ascender tends to be the most common choice for a reason. It’s simple, proven, and just works in nearly every cave scenario I’ve been in.
Your main capture point while climbing; keeps you upright and takes most of the load.
CHest Ascenders
I currently use the Petzl Croll L, which has been the most efficient for my style of climbing. It handles thicker ropes really well, especially in muddy conditions, and gives a smoother, more consistent experience than some of the smaller or lighter models.
I’ve also used the Croll S and Kong chest ascenders, which are both great for thinner ropes but can feel a bit less stable on larger diameters. There are plenty of options on the market — it just depends on your rope size, conditions, and personal preference.
Boosts rope climbing efficiency by keeping your body aligned and reducing strain on your arms.
Foot ascenders
I use the Petzl Pantin Left, but it’s worth noting it doesn’t come with a locking catch — you have to buy and install that separately. I personally prefer having it for added security, but some cavers climb without it just fine.
I’ve also tried Kong’s foot ascender, which performs similarly but has the same catch issue. Most folks stick with Petzl for their foot ascender, but like everything in vertical caving, it comes down to personal style and preference.
Descenders
Standard full-length racks offer smooth, controlled descents and are great for long drops or heavy loads.
racks
I use a 14-inch full rack with six stainless steel bars — the standard for big vertical drops. Stainless lasts longer and gives less friction than aluminum, but I recommend a hyper bar on top to make lock-offs smoother and give you an emergency friction option.
Some cavers add a flipped hyper bar as their third or fourth bar down for extra wrap-around control. Aluminum bars offer more friction but wear down fast and can coat your rope. Either way, a rack is dependable, smooth, and works for almost any drop.
A compact version of the full rack — lighter, shorter, and ideal for most caving scenarios.
Micro Racks
My go-to is a BMS Micro Rack with a top hyper bar and another flipped further down. It’s compact, stainless steel, and handles almost everything I throw at it — perfect for TAG-style drops and beyond.
Micro racks aren’t ideal for thicker ropes or muddy 11mm lines, but for most situations, they offer plenty of control and are easier to manage than a full rack. It all comes down to rope type, comfort, and attachment style.
Smaller and simpler than racks, bobbins are fast to rig and great for shorter or technical drops.
Bobbins
Bobbins are simple, compact, and great for short to moderate drops. They come with aluminum spools, but you can mod them with stainless steel internals for longer-lasting performance and less wear.
For control, you’ll often pair a bobbin with a friction spur like a Petzl Freino Z carabiner, which adds braking without needing extra gear. They’re not ideal for long drops, but for lightweight travel and thinner ropes, they’re fast, efficient, and fun to use.
These are your personal safety tethers — used for clipping into bolts, rebelays, or traverses.
Cow’s Tails
and QAS
My cow’s tail and QAS setup are built from a single piece of dynamic rope, tied into two separate lengths. One reaches the bottom of my chin, the other about halfway up my face. Both are connected with a figure-eight at the base, finished with triple barrel knots for extra security if shock-loaded.
I clip a chest ascender or hand ascender (like the Petzl Croll S or Basic) into one of those arms depending on what I’m doing. It’s perfect for tricky changeovers, tensioned ropes, and staying clipped in at all times. I always recommend keeping your cow’s tail and ascender on separate loops — especially during free-hanging traverses — so you can stay securely connected with two points at all times.
Your rope is your lifeline, and your hardware is what keeps it all together, this is where strength and trust matter most.
Rope & hardware
My favorite rope for general caving is PMI Pit Rope — tough, dependable, and holds up well over time. It can be a little bouncy on long drops, so for deeper, straight drops, like Fantastic(568’/179m), I prefer Sterling HTP, which rappels super smooth and climbs like a steel cable. Both are great options depending on the conditions and the kind of cave you’re in.
For hardware, always go with locking carabiners for rigging and safety systems. I prefer oval or pear-shaped screw gates like the Black Diamond Oval Keylock, Hot Forged Screwgate, or the Petzl OK Screw Lock. As long as it’s a durable, locking oval or pear, you’re set — just make sure it’s rated and built to take abuse underground.
When yelling “off rope” doesn’t cut it, a Rocky-Talkie makes communication clean, clear, and easy.
COMMS
I use Rocky-Talkies on almost every vertical trip — especially for long or loud drops where voice communication just isn’t practical. Whether it’s Fantastic Pit, a high-flow entrance like Incredible, or just a noisy drop, these radios make life way easier.
They’re rugged, long-lasting, and built for harsh outdoor conditions. While they aren’t specifically made for caves, they hold up extremely well underground, even in moisture-heavy environments. Clear comms between top and bottom can make a big difference in both safety and flow.